Saturday, June 25, 2011

Family Matters

Since I’ll be living with my new family for quite some time, I think it’s about time to introduce them. Her they are, in vaguely chronological order….

Baaba: ~70, the resident grandpa of our compound. Until my third week in village I never saw him leave the rice-sac chair located under the awning of his hut. Then, one day when I was sick in bed he made it all the way across the compound to see how I was doing. He moves around more these days – comically leading a large bull around by the horns or hanging downtown at the market – but usually he’s keeping sentry from his hut.

Neene Toolye: ~60, grandma #1. I’m not sure if she’s Baaba’s actual wife or a wife he inherited from his brother, but Neene Toolye mostly does typical grandma things – watching the children, cleaning around the house, taking advantage of the “no shirt, no shoes, no problem” dinnertime policy.

Neene Hawa: ~60, grandma #2. I think Neene Hawa was Baaba’s “real” wife, but this is also unclear. She is a tiny women with traditional Pulaar tattooing around her mouth but is always chipper. She travels a fair amount (doing what I’m not sure) and hasn’t been around too much since I moved in.

Oumar: ~35, host “dad.” Oumar is my official host here in Sare Sara and is an up and comer in the village. Since he’s not really old enough to be my father I often refer to him as my host uncle. He’s also no really Baaba’s son, but his nephew (although these distinctions aren’t really important). I’m not sure which Neene is his real neene.

Khady: ~20, Oumar’s wife. Really sweet and helpful when I need something, but not too outgoing with me. Khady represents a demographic I’m having a bit of trouble getting to know – the women around my age but married with multiple children.

Toolye and Binta: 3 and 3 months. Oumar and Khady’s daughters. Toolye is adorable and bears an uncanny resemblance to Stitch, the Disney character alien. Binta is a very well behaved baby who has just learned to sit up by herself.

Mamadou: ~33, Oumar’s brother/cousin and I think Baaba’s actual son. Mamadou is great and incredibly helpful with my language learning - he’s very patient, speaks slowly and isn’t about pantomiming or drawing in the dirt until I understand. He also has a fabulous selection of Rhianna on his cell phone. I call him my uncle.

Coumba: ~16, Mamadou’s wife and my tokara (namesake). Very nice but a little cold sometimes – I hope once my language gets better we’ll be able to connect more. Also falls into the “younger than me but with significantly more responsibility” demographic. The age difference between her and her husband skeeves me out a little, but they seem alright. I wouldn’t be surprised if a baby joined the family before I leave.

Pate (28), Aliou (25) and Adema (18): Oumar’s brothers/cousins – I was told who is who but can’t remember. I refer to these three as my brothers since they’re closer to my age. They’ve all been really helpful with my language and are great to talk to. They are entirely un-creepy and I feel very safe knowing I have three big brothers watching out for me.

Ablye: ~9. I have no idea whose child he is but everyone seems to look out for him. He’s a typical little boy and spends most of his time running around town but rarely causes trouble.


Guynacko: The family dog and possibly the fattest dog in Senegal. Guynacko means "cowboy" in Pulaar, and he is officially meant to keep an eye on the livestock but really just sleeps all day. Guynacko and I were quite good friends, but since the introduction of Tigi Tigi he's been feeling neglected.

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