After 24 hours in DC making small talk, we arrived in Senegal early in the morning and spent the next 5 days doing introductory technical trainings (gardening), cross cultural things (bucket bathing) and survival language lessons. I have been assigned to learn a dialect of Pulaar called Fulakunda. Although Pulaar isn't the most widely spoken language in Senegal, it's used in a number of West African countries so could prove to be useful in the future. Fulakunda is spoken primarily in the southern part of the country, so I have been spared living a desert for two years but will probably get to live in a comparatively lush region south of The Gambia called Kolda.
Last Monday we transferred from the training center in Thies to our CBT sites aka training villages. I'm in a group with 3 other trainees and our LCT (language and cultural facilitator) in a placed called Mbour, about 80km from Thies (I realize this means nothing to anyone, so go search Google maps). The "suburb" of Mbour we're in is called Liberte and is essentially a desert in the middle of no where, which means it's really pleasant now that the hot season is setting in.
My host family is comical and probably atypical but not horrible. I've been given the name Kumba, after the 5 year old girl (who is the cousin of my "mom"). Since there are two Kumbas in our house it's taken some time to realize when I'm being spoken to and when my tokara (namesake) is being yelled at. They've taken to calling me Kumba Toubob - which means foreigner - but it usually comes out as "touba" which means pants.
The other members of my house are my "mom," who is 20 years old (or so she claims), my "dad" who is 35ish and works all day (doing what isn't exactly clear) and Jafara, a 5 year old boy who is not their son but once told me he had two dads...still trying to figure that one out. My Mom has hosted 3 other volunteers, so she quickly put me to work doing household chores. The 5 year olds and I am responsible for washing dishes in the morning and after lunch, sweeping the house, mopping my room and pounding spices. I think she's slightly abusing her position, but it's nice to have a routine and feel somewhat helpful. Everyone who comes to our house gives me the same "check out that well-trained toubob" look, before laughing at whatever I'm trying to do and/or say. Aside from the rolling blackouts, lack of effective communication and Cinderella-style housework it's really going great!
Best story so far: one day we had a rooster, the next day we had him for lunch. A random guy - who I have since learned actually lives in our compound - just showed up one morning, started sharpening a knife on the side of the house, and sawed off his head right in front of me. The 5 year olds were highly amused, and after 2 meals of poor mr. gertogal I was immensely satisfied (especially since it no longer meant 6:30 wake up calls). This experience brought new meaning to the phase "like a chicken with its head cut off."
After 6 nights in the villages - all 46 of us are spread out in different areas but another group of 4 is a short distance away - we came back to the training center for more technical, medial and administrative sessions. I'm now conscious of all the crazy infections/rashes/amoebas/parasites/worms and something called a "creeping eruption" that I will experience in the next two years. The rainy season will surely be a medical adventure filled with fungus, but I pray no more staph infections.
Tomorrow we head back to the villages for a marathon 12 days, which will include a weekend off when I'm hoping to hit the beach. If for any reason you want to call me (my birthday is next Saturday, so you will) you can get me on my Senegalese cell phone: 00221776720360. Feel free to text also if you can't spare the dough - or call me from Skype. Either way, Becca Almond is winning the friend race for sending me my first package - thanks Becs! Family, I have yet to receive anything so your race is still up for grabs (though I think Mom is going to win soon).
More stories and hopefully a better tended to blog in two weeks!
xox
kp
